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For many Ashkenazic Jews, stuffed cabbage in sweet-and-sour sauce is essential for Sukkot.
It is just one of the many dishes that were developed in the shetls of Eastern and Central Europe to transform and ordinarily mundane ingredient, such as cabbage, into
a rich-tasting delicacy. At the same time, precious meat was stretched to serve a few more.
This dish probably
became traditional for Sukkot because cabbage is plentiful during the harvest season, and also "stuffed foods" are customarily
eaten on the holiday to symbolize abundance.
Depending on the locale where they or their ancestors once lived, Jews
have given stuffed cabbage many different appellations. Some of the more popular Ashkenazic ones include holishkes, bolopches, praakes, and galuptze. Sephardic Jews
make a very similar type of stuffed cabbage, occasionally using ground lamb instead of beef. Those from Turkey and nearby
areas generally call the dish dolmas de col or yaprakis de kol. Middle Eastern Jews spice it differently, and sometimes call it sarmas or mishimalfouf.
As with many other Jewish recipes that have been carried around the world, stuffed cabbage
has innumerable variations. For a delicious, satisfying taste, I have added a few innovative ingredients, such as applesauce
and mustard powder, to the following basically Ashkenazic version.
1 large head (about 2 pounds) white or savoy cabbage
SAUCE
3 cups plain tomato sauce (3 8-ounce cans)
1/3
cup applesauce
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 to 3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
3 tablespoons apple cider
vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon powdered mustard
salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup dry
raisins (optional)
FILLING
1
pound very lean ground beef
1 small onion, grated
1/2 cup long-grain white rice
1/4 cup applesauce
1 large egg
3/4
teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper, preferable freshly ground
Pinch of ground allspice (optional
Remove
and discard the core and any discolored leaves from the cabbage. Very carefully peel off about 15 whold outer leaves.
(The exact number needed will depend on the size.) If the leaves will not come off, cut away the core of the cabbage
and parboil the entire head in a large pot of water for about 10 minutes, or until the leaves can be loosened. To soften
the separated leaves so they can be easily rolled, put them into a pot of boiling water and simmer them for about 5 minutes,
or until they are translucent and very flexible. Cut away any very thick, tough ribs from the base of each leaf.
For
the sauce, combine all the ingredients in a very large deep skillet, an electric frying pan, or a Dutchoven. Bring to
a simmer over medium high heat; then lower the heat, cover, and simmer gently, stirring occisionally.
Meanwhile, prepare
the filling and stuff the cabbage. For the filling mix together all the ingredients using your hand or a fork until
they are well combined and smooth. To stuff the cabbage, put a spoonful of the filling in the center of a leaf (the
exact amount depends on the size of the leaf). Fold up the edge of the leaf which was nearest the core; then fold in
the sides and roll up the leaf to enclose the filling. Put the roll, seam side down, into the simmering sauce.
Continue until all the filling is used. Try to arrange the cabbage rolls in one layer in the pan.
Stuffed cabbage
can be made ahead and reheated; it has a deserved reputation for being "even better the next day." It can also be frozen.
Makes
5 to 6 servings
NOTE: If time allows, white cabbage may be softened by freezing it for a day or 3 days, and then
defrosting it in the refrigerator overnight. Parboiling the leaves, as directed about, is not then neccessary.
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